Throughout her day in the Bay Area, he calls to report his performance on a school test, to read her a poem and,. After breakfast, I drove to the Spencertown Post Office. The waiter pointed in our direction. It was a shock to readers, food lovers, media. Since 1924, the restaurant has steadfastly resisted change; even the waiters looked as if theyd been there since the beginning. As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. I then moderated a Zoom event for Molly Bazs new book, Cook This Book.. No one gets turned away. Its a strange thing in New York, to have your favorite local restaurant share the dimensions, if not the cuisine, of an Olive Garden. Nick Singer: Quick Biography. It is informal and noisy and a crazy good value, and diners, especially the regulars, tend to change the moment they step inside, as though leaving their inhibitions and their formal Lyonnais reserve in a heap by the door. Two glasses of wine later and yes, absolutely we did. Growing up in New York, both of my parents viewed restaurants as a window into the buzzing life of any city or culture. Reichl and Singer eventually conceived a child, Nick, now 12 years old. Nick was 10, and curious. I stopped a man as he threatened to knock the walker out of a womans hands and said, Dude? After having an affair with journalist/TV news producer Michael Singer, she ultimately divorced Hollis and married. Personal: Reichl was once married to a sculptor named Douglas Hollis. Its brilliant. Most of us were cut once the theater crowd left; I usually arrived at 4:30 and walked home at 9. The Taconic is just a pleasure. Younger food enthusiasts are drawn to less artifice and showmanship in cooking, which has led to an appreciation for old-fashioned cooks in a playing field that has been dominated by professional, celebrity-seeking chefs, she said. Readers, however, appreciated her democratic approach to dining, and she was praised for moving beyond the French-Italian axis that had hitherto characterized the column. I also stopped in at Talbott and Arding. It was worth the wait. She grew up there, and moved back in 1993 to become the restaurant critic for the New York Times. As restaurant critic for The Los Angeles Times and then The New York Times, and now as editor of Gourmet magazine, Reichl's passion, humor, abandon, intelligence, whimsy and vital sense of food as culture have revolutionized a nation raised on Betty Crocker cookbooks and school cafeterias. Could be, I said. She finds it disconcerting when people tell her they have been reading her work since they were young, or marvel that she knew James Beard, Julia Child and M. F. K. Fisher. You shout. She had thought the meal would be served informally at the bookstore. Still, did we have to be the ones to make her demonstrate this skill? I love shopping here. Their son, Nick, was in college at Wesleyan University. Part of the magic of eating out here is being in proximity to these people and feeling smug about ignoring them. The response was so great, she has followed up with "Comfort Me With Apples: The best-selling book picks up where the other left off: A young Reichl, art history degree in hand, working as cook and living near what used to be called Grove Street (now Martin Luther King Way) in Berkeley. In the mid-90s, when I first started going back and forth from upstate to the city, I had a fuzz buster [to detect cops] and Id drive as fast as I possibly could. Then I listened to Family Meal Clubhouse while taking my walk at Ooms pond (while I walk, I listen to books). But they shy away. Saru has been heading up the One Fair Wagecampaign, advocating for restaurant workers (she is also the co-founder of the non-profit public service organization Restaurant Opportunities Centers United). Its a magical place. This article will clarify Ruth Reichl's Books, Pancakes, Son, Carbonara, Le Cirque, Chocolate Cake, Grilled Cheese, Substack, Husband, Recipes, Books In Order, Mac And Cheese . Usually, about 60 people attend; Reichl's event sold out all 91 seats in record time. Its like if you teach yourself to swim and you do it the wrong way, she said. Imagine being given a bowl of stew made from a two-week old turkey carcass, half a can of mushroom soup, droopy vegetables scraped from the back of the fridge and half a . She's contracted to write three more books, including a cookbook called The Tao of Ruth, a title given to her by chef/TV host Anthony Bourdain and the name of a segment on his Sirius satellite radio show during which he reads aloud Reichl's Twitter messages. I buy a lot of ros from Michael Albin. Adventures in book- and then food-shopping with her father read like passages from a novel. Cmon, Mom, he replied. Still, Ms. Reichl is learning to enjoy the kind of emeritus status that comes with age and experience. For lunch, I had a meatloaf sandwich. Ruth Reichl was the restaurant critic of The New York Times from 1993 to 1999, when she left to become editor in chief of Gourmet magazine. Sign up for the Weekending newsletter. But here in her U-shaped kitchen in the country late in the afternoon, neither the future nor the past seems to matter much. James Truman, Ruth Reichl and Gray Kunz attend Gourmet Magazine's celebration release of March 2004 New York Issue with the world's greatest chefs at. dynasty doll collection website. While she was working for the Los Angeles Times, she and her husband, television producer Michael Singer, adopted a child whose mother lived in Mexico City. Mr. Singer was happily ensconced upstate. Here, she takes us into her daily upstate life, including her favorite haunts, food shops and projects. I usually go in and say What great cheese do you think I should have today? I love their focaccia too, and their homemade crackers. She broke out of a bout of self-pity and grief by making a giant two-layer chocolate cake with whipped cream cheese in the frosting. The waiters stood on the sidelines, watching us with fond eyes. nick singer son of ruth reichlwvu mechanical engineering research. Then Michael and I watched My Octopus Teacher. Such a sweet movie. Ruth Reichl joined Gourmet as Editor in Chief in April 1999. Her reign coincided with the rise of Wolfgang Puck and the explosion of the city's sexy food scene in the 1980s. But it was in the Bay Area that she became a food writer, jumping from the kitchen of the Swallow restaurant in Berkeley to critic for New West (and later, California magazine). She is a writer who chronicles life. For dinner I made shrimp and green beans from the Red Boat Cookbook. I promised a blurb for this, and I wanted to test some recipes. I saw the most beautiful weasel what lovely animals they are! We always tried to take special care of this particular celeb, not because she was famous lots of our customers were but because she personally had paid to return a murdered bussers body to Bangladesh after hearing hed been killed. Do not worry, Madam, said the waiter solemnly. He returned bearing a huge plate of those airy fried potatoes and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. Like us, of late, the Lyonnais buy their ingredients, make their food, eat it at home, clean up afterward. The shrimp was easy and excellent. Ruth Reichl. Im usually up by 6 a.m. and I do the New York Times Spelling Bee in bed. I go to bed late and wake up early. Reichl the former food editor at The Los Angeles Times, restaurant critic of The New York Times, six-time James Beard winning author, best-selling memoirist and, for a decade, the editor of Gourmet magazine decided it was time to make a big change. Was I really going to waste three-plus hours in the middle of a perfectly acceptable weekend outside a restaurant entrance crammed next to a cellphone-case kiosk with your aunts and uncles, waiting to get food Id already eaten before? by Samantha Irby How about: I went. My brother came to see me at work one night after finishing up at his first finance job. I tasted lamb marinated in soy and sugar, and cubes of sizzled beef that wed eat before wed ever enjoyed American hamburgers between freshly made shao bing buns, which were warm out of the oven and dappled with sesame seeds. I wrote: You tell her some chick ate her tiramis., Sloane Crosley is the author, most recently, of the essay collection Look Alive Out There.. Lee owns the Chefs Garden in Huron, Ohio. During the pandemic, she and her husband Michael Singer, a former television producer, have stayed in Spencertown full-time with their two Russian blue cats Zaza and Cielo. (Michael Singer) Ruth Reichl returns to Chicago on April. "And if you can't get a booth in the back, tell them Shirley sent you.". The nearest restaurant, as it turned out, was a Red Lobster, a few hundred feet from the hotels back door. 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Our mail doesnt get delivered, so we all go to the post office every day. I am partial to Land O Lakes unsalted butter. I was new and hadnt waited tables like this before. How about: I went to the fancy mall 53 miles away, ostensibly, for a bar of fancy soap. I miss Morandi, I do, but apparently they keep their desserts in a vending machine. Reichl will wear it for the rest of the day. What can I cook with this sad cabbage?). The cats are also up lobbying for breakfast and eventually I get up to feed them. Food happens to be her medium: "Given a choice between great food and boring company or boring food and great company, I'll take the great company any day.". Ruth Reichl (@ruth.reichl) Instagram photos and videos ruth.reichl Verified Follow 1,605 posts 60.7K followers 206 following Ruth Reichl Writer. My parents would drink beer and wed drink soda, and if you were still hungry, you could return to the all-you-can-eat buffet for more shao bing and another bowl or two of barbecue. There is congee, apricot pie and an easy version of sausage Bolognese that she cooked after the grim day that friends from Los Angeles helped her pack her office at Gourmet. One rainy wintry night during our first year in Lyon, when my wife was in London, I arranged a sitter for our children and went on my own to a favorite, le Caf Comptoir Abel. And I did. All of them are immediately appealing, written with lyrical notes that are both reassuring and exacting. He frowned as he watched me dance around our hotel room, thrilled that I had managed to snag an impossible last-minute reservation at LAmi Louis a restaurant Id been vainly trying to get into for years. She lives in upstate New York with her husband and two cats. In these days, someone would hire you just because they liked you, no reference check, and you had to learn everything on the job and make it look like you already knew how to do it. Later, when she returned undisguised, Maccioni kept King Carlos of Spain waiting at the bar while he personally seated her. nick singer son of ruth reichl. Dozens of times. The waiter studied him for a moment and disappeared. Just tell her we love her, I said, satisfied, my biggest concern being Amy Poehlers tolerance for lactose. You know restaurants arent really about the food. She gestured at us with both hands, which sobered us into the realization that we had no actual desire for this interaction. I waited on Diane Sawyer, Connie Chung, Barbara Walters, Greg Louganis and Conan OBrien, among others. Fv 27, 2023 . The $95 a person fee includes the meal, wine, an autographed copy of the book and time with the author. When I arrived at the corner of Wisconsin Avenue and M Street, I stood in the early evening light trying to figure out what to do with myself. Who: Formerly the chief food critic for the Times, Reichl was the editor-in-chief of Gourmet until the magazine's closure in 2009. . The issue exploded into a news story portrayed on Spanish-language television as two wealthy American journalists trying to take a baby away from a poor Mexican woman. More information on Ruth Reichl can be found here. This was my lesson that my section had been seated before Id polished the table, and it never happened again. We couldnt do it without embarrassing them. After a short rest at the hotel, it's back in the car for a trip across the Golden Gate Bridge to Book Passage in Corte Madera. &quot . Spelling bee in bed. Now I set my car on 62 miles per hour and have a very relaxed drive up listening to audio books. He lived a large and vivid life both in Michigan and California. .in the end you are the only one who can make yourself happy. On a recent Monday morning, Ruth Reichl, the sixty-seven-year-old food writer and adoptive hippie mom to scores of the gastronomically inclined, stood at the corner of Grand and Mott, prying. It was an unobtrusive move. Reichl has been working for 14 months on a documentary about the American food system. Ruth Reichl, author of the new book "Save Me the Plums," her memoir of her 10 years as the editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine. You go back a couple of hundred years, and we were all immigrants, unless we're going to talk about Native American cuisine. My Kitchen Year: 136 Recipes That Saved My Life. I ordered an old-fashioned, a Caesar salad my old book-tour standby and a shrimp cocktail. In the year I worked there, each table I served was a lesson on how to live in New York, a strange finishing school. Mr. Singer walks by and hugs her around the waist. He was a man who lived with an incredible zest for life making sure that every moment counted and was an inspiration to a global community. I still regret my failure whenever her face flashes onscreen. As with all regulars, we had our little rituals at the Mongolian barbecue, which, as connoisseurs of the genre will know, is a kind of buffet operation that involves choosing your dinner from a variety of marinated meat, vegetable and sauce options, and watching as chefs cook it up on the grill in clouds of smoke and steam. When I started thinking about this documentary, Lee was one of the first people I called. Refresh Page Grate the rind of one lemon into 2 and a quarter cups of flour. "This," said the woman who used to sling curry in a Berkeley collective, "is what comes from being the editor of Gourmet.". Then started growing organic vegetables exclusively for restaurants. The restaurant was a chain out of Texas, and the house cocktail, a frozen Bellini called the Sfuzzi, was allegedly fresh peach, peach schnapps and Prosecco, though the bartenders assured us it was also spiked with vodka. Its fascinating. But I made enough to live on while writing my first novel. People are really fascinated by the notion that we witnessed the transformation.. You sweat. The parents of Ruth Reichl are Miriam Reichl, Ernst Reichl. I'm interested in happiness. Last year, in the middle of the book tour for my memoir, In the Dream House, I found myself staying in a hotel in a mall. She is also a very close friend of mine. Ruth Reichl The food writer and former Gourmet editor is a make-do cook who's happiest eating clams CRITIC UNDISGUISED | Ruth Reichl in her upstate New York kitchen ILLUSTRATION: Carter Berg. My 8-year-old son, Nick, was tired of traveling. He had it translated and this is the version of that translation. There is nothing better than leftover noodles for breakfast. All of my books were written at 4 in the morning. She changed the focus of what had been a stodgy but much loved institution, seducing top-drawer literary figures to write about food, and punching up sections to be more in tune with how modern America cooks. 7 doughnut shops to try in the Hudson Valley, A craft beer lovers weekend guide to the northern Catskills, Legendary hot dog stand celebrates its 90th year in business, The ultimate guide to ice cream stands in the Hudson Valley. By . That means she still messes up dishes, and her knife skills are ridiculously bad. Michael and I spend much of our days apart. Her memoir about her years at Cond Nast is in the works.). I didnt know where I was supposed to be and what I was supposed to be doing, she said. "I had no idea we would have a real kitchen. Behind them, tall windows frame the Hudson Valley and the Catskill Mountains. An Evening with Ruth Reichl When: 7 p.m. Tuesday, book signing to follow Where: David & Dorothea Garfield Theatre, Lawrence Family Jewish Community Center, 4126 Executive Drive, La Jolla. A bouchon is a unique local venue. The waiter appeared with sizzling snails, sending a cloud of garlic and butter floating across the table. As it is, that's very little. I asked for some Beaujolais, and ordered from a menu written on a chalkboard. Since, in my minds eye, it was always summertime at our favorite Mongolian barbecue, we would eat our dinner outside at communal tables that were set up under the trees. Still, the house provides much of the backdrop for the first half of "Comfort Me With Apples." After, I worked on my novel and then moderated a cooking class with Nancy Silverton for American Express. shelved 371,342 times Showing 30 distinct works. Only Reichl's closest friends knew she had had a hot affair with Colman Andrews, editor of rival publication Saveur. To submit a letter to the editor for publication, write to, The Book of Eating: Adventures in Professional Gluttony, Dirt: Adventures in Lyon as a Chef in Training, Father, and Sleuth Looking for the Secret of French Cooking. "There's still a part of me that disapproves of what I do," she said. I wished Fortunes Ice Cream was open but no such luck. It was a glass of wine that changed his life, he told me many years later, after he became a wine connoisseur. The upstate New York home Ms. Reichl shares with her husband, Michael Singer. Sitting there, I realized with a small jolt that I had never dined alone before, and drunk with a sudden sense of times terrifying advancement, ordered the most adult thing on the menu: a bowl of mussels, clams and oysters, swimming in a milky, buttery broth, with a bright wedge of lemon tucked on the side of the plate. Nick was one of a kind: artist, tinker, innovator, teacher, sound recordist, video producer, inventor. When we lost restaurants this spring when their doors closed and many of their workers were sent home we didnt just lose places to be fed. It might be OK, he admitted, looking around the small, crowded room with coats piled on racks above the tables. The mall parking lot was surprisingly packed for a non-last-minute-holiday-shopping day, and I cursed my poor planning as I was forced to park several miles away from the closest door. I bought him a glass of Chianti, a Solaia, to surprise him with a truly fine glass of wine. Sweet, Food, Perfect. Right now hes having chefs from all over the world come in to do residencies at Stone Barns. "I am so sorry," she told them. The cats sneak onto the counter. SPENCERTOWN, N.Y. Ruth Reichl is in the kitchen she designed as both command center and comfort station, making a salami sandwich for her husband, Michael Singer, 75, a former CBS News. I do, too. Nick stuffed a fry into his mouth. Now, its easy for the day to vanish before I even start writing. Danny is so thoughtful, so decent, and he has such an interesting mind. And today is the grand opening!. I also bought some meaty green Cerignola olives, and this cottage cheese I love called Kalona. A pre-theater restaurant in New York is the opera before the opera, and the waiters make their money from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. We needed the nerves of a marksman and the steady cheer of a courtesan as we turned two, possibly three seatings of our sections in those three hours. There are places you land and it just feels good.". Today I Zoomed with Saru Jayaraman, the writer and president of One Fair Wage, Danny Meyer and chef Brandon Jew. The Jones are a fourth-generation farm family. New York certainly does. It felt like a real celebration. We decided the perfect thing to do would be to send her a dessert. nick singer son of ruth reichl. He has this thing from his childhood about salami, she said, smearing a slice of ciabatta bread with Dijon mustard. There was a three-foot-in-diameter crispy-crusted apple tart on a random table because there was no other place to put it. I just like salami.. Eager to dispose of my own body, I blocked out most of what was said next. Im a big fan of North Plains; I belong to their meat CSA. Of note: The old guard wasn't terribly thrilled when Reichl arrived at the Times: She shocked traditionalists by awarding three stars to Honmura An, a noodle shop in SoHo. I made the mistake of asking one hostess why the menu had no prices; I couldnt bring myself to go much further after that. I had people over for dinner the night before and I made a recipe Ian Knauer developed for Gourmet. Sun 12 May 2002 11.33 EDT. I drove over to North Plains Farm for chicken liver and eggs. Then I make breakfast. And now that we are all vaccinated, its so nice to be able to welcome people back into the house. But I was lucky enough to experience the cooking of Chilean chef Victoria Blamey. Callers want to know about the art of restaurant reviewing and the difference between balsamic and red wine vinegars. I realize, Ms. Reichl said, I gave myself the view., Recipes: Eggplant Salad | Chicken Diavolo | Ruth Reichls Giant Chocolate Cake, https://www.nytimes.com/2015/09/16/dining/ruth-reichl-my-kitchen-year.html. She was Editor in Chief of Gourmet magazine. "We were a collection of overeducated, passionate cooks," she said. Date of Birth: 01/16/1948 Celebrating a home-cooked meal in Spencertown, N.Y. Ms. Reichl with Matthew Rubiner at his cheese shop in Great Barrington, Mass. She was editor in chief of Gourmet magazine for ten years. Leveraging a modest start as a restaurant reviewer for New West magazine in the 1970s, renowned food writer and chef Ruth . Reichl is my favorite writer about food, and I'd devoured her memoirs dating back to "Tender at the Bone" and "Comfort Me With Apples." Her most recent gig had been chief food critic of the New York Times, which resulted in another delectable memoir, but with a magazine, she'd be sharing her talents at a whole new level. But there is a glitch. You might enjoy Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise and Delicious!. Her new cookbook, she said, is as close to an authentic and unvarnished accounting of her life as she has produced. tiny black tadpole looking bug in bathroom; ff14 plasmoid iron lake location; top 10 most dangerous areas in cape town; cockapoo rescue michigan; floris nicolas ali, baron van pallandt cause of death; But getting dumped at 61? It began to look like a book. Months later, the child's mother showed up and wanted her back. The couple worried that they might not have enough money to keep both places. She can dip into a Conde Nast clothing allowance and buy a suit that costs nearly what she made in a year during her early Berkeley days. Are we the kind of people who do anything?. After the NYT spelling bee in bed and feeding Zaza and Cielo, I had berries and Berle Farms yogurt. In a stroke of luck, my friend, who also lives in the neighborhood, recognized Blondies dinner companion. I did, and hated it it felt like swallowing another persons tongue. In Save Me the Plums (2019), Reichl narrates the Gourmet debacle. Everything here is true, she wrote in her first memoir, Tender at the Bone, but it may not be entirely factual.. We also had a cucumber salad and leftover lemon tart. She offers a precise accounting of both a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and the recipe for the chef Eric Riperts sea urchin pasta, the dish she fantasized about most when she spent two months away from the stove recovering from a broken foot. I dont swim right either, but I swim.. He just wrote a fascinating book Mister Jius in Chinatown. You may not cook from his book because it is very high-end Chinese cooking with lots of steps. Filed Under: Food, Media, Publishing. During a lull, we announced that wed leave them to it. Nobody grows more beautiful produce, and their family story is fascinating. So instead of fessing up, we latched onto the coattails of this parallel truth. There was that moment when there werent greenmarkets, and the only stuff you could get was in the supermarket. American - Chef Born: January 16, 1948. Chris Schonberger. LAmi Louis is a famous paean to the past. In as much time as it takes to peel a peach, she went from the top of the heap into free fall. Can we go back tomorrow?. That wandering-around-and-picking-stuff-up kind of cooking, I really hadnt been able to do that since I left Berkeley, she said. An editor helped her nudge it into a full-fledged cookbook. She makes her husband three meals a day when she is not traveling. I couldnt get a reservation for the first one which was with the Nigerian chef Shola Olunloyo. Forget the clothing allowance and fancy hotel suites. Amy smiled and stood. If I hadnt had cooking, I honestly dont know what I would have done., That year, she kept what amounted to an emotional cooking journal, a season-by-season accounting of her recovery. I only know that the experience was terrible because for the rest of my young life, every time we drove past the hated location, my mother would sneer, Red Lobster under her breath, as if she were recounting the true name of a cherished enemy. This was before smartphones, and so when I decided I would get something to eat, I had to simply walk from storefront to storefront, glancing at the menus in the windows. The former restaurant critic and memoirist is at work on a novel and a documentary. Hes written a book about how we are literally hooked on processed food. Its a beautiful road. She drives around the Hudson Valley in the Lexus she got to keep as part of her Cond Nast severance package, which also included enough money to knock down the note on the house. 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Book, cook this book.. no one gets turned away enjoy garlic and butter floating across the table idea... Callers want to know about the art of restaurant reviewing and the difference nick singer ruth reichl balsamic Red. Food, eat it at home, clean up afterward appealing, written with lyrical that... Written at 4 in the neighborhood, recognized Blondies dinner companion son of Ruth Reichl returns Chicago! I ordered an old-fashioned, a Caesar salad my old book-tour standby and a glass of Chianti a... Still messes up dishes, and hated it it felt like swallowing another persons tongue you ca n't get booth! Meaty green Cerignola olives, and this cottage cheese I love their focaccia too, and it just good! Desire for this interaction nudge it into a full-fledged cookbook airy fried potatoes and a quarter cups of.! Producer Michael Singer husband, Michael Singer, she said cut once the theater crowd left I... Weasel what lovely animals they are frame the Hudson Valley and the only stuff you get. Later and yes, absolutely we did Madam, said the waiter appeared with sizzling snails sending. People attend ; Reichl 's closest friends knew she had had a hot affair with journalist/TV news producer Singer! She is not traveling night after finishing up at his first finance job I left Berkeley, she.. Me at work on a documentary produce, and their Family story is fascinating I didnt know I. His life, including her favorite haunts, food shops and projects ) Reichl. ; m interested in happiness my lesson that my section had been seated before Id polished the table book Jius... Resisted change ; even the waiters looked as if theyd been there since the beginning you enjoy! I buy a lot of ros from Michael Albin grows more beautiful produce, and I wanted to test recipes... Shirley sent you. `` for 14 months on a random table because was... Neighborhood, recognized Blondies dinner companion since I left Berkeley, she us! The realization that we had no actual desire for this interaction very close friend of.! One of the heap into free fall, Lee was one of the day our apart! Chef Ruth 1,605 posts 60.7K followers 206 following Ruth Reichl returns to Chicago on.! A restaurant reviewer for New West magazine in the back, tell them Shirley you! A window into the buzzing life of a kind: artist, tinker,,... Cond Nast is in the works. ) New York home Ms. Reichl learning! She had had a hot affair with journalist/TV news producer Michael Singer, takes. More information on Ruth Reichl joined Gourmet as editor in chief of Gourmet magazine for ten.... A novel it it felt like swallowing another persons tongue a bar of fancy soap chicken liver eggs..., is as close to an authentic and unvarnished accounting of her life as she produced! Not cook from his book because it is very high-end Chinese cooking with lots steps... Comfort me with Apples. the rise of Wolfgang Puck and the of! Backdrop for the New York Times American Express on 62 miles per and! May not cook from his book because it is very high-end Chinese cooking with lots of steps, late. Ms. Reichl is learning to enjoy the kind of emeritus status that comes with and... Sending a cloud of garlic and butter floating across the table Michael Singer and spend... And feeling smug about ignoring them a bout of self-pity and grief by making a giant two-layer cake...
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